Across the plain

To the east of the Saône, northeast of Lyon, is a wide flat plain called La Dombes full of little lakes. The lakes are largely man-made, many dating from the Midde Ages, dug to create a fishing industry. They are also a paradise for birds. 

It would be nice to recount the joys of moving slowly through this area of water and wildlife. But it is difficult to report other than a long, hot slog, with the green lakes surprisingly uninviting. This road sign outside St Marcel en Dombes twisted the knife. Fat chance of ice on the road with afternoon temperatures pushing 40..

Nearby Villars-les-Dombes is a thriving little town. Commuters poured off the late afternoon train from Lyon, 40 minutes away. No shortage of boulangeries here - we counted at least four. And a very nicely restored church, mixing romanesque and gothic. 

Here Riccardo left me to join his family coming from Italy. Alas he missed the better of the two days needed to cross the plain. The second day produced a reasonable amount of shade and more tracks and footpaths than tarmac. 

I passed the beautiful little 13th century Chateau Montellier. 

It's been in the same family since the Revolution and the name on postbox had a certain style, above the usual request for no junk mail.